How Lost Luggage Turned Into a Fantastic Hone Cooked Meal in Paris

I was supposed to be the first one there.  I speak "the French" as my Aunt calls it, so I was supposed to meet the property manager and get us all checked in to the apartment we were staying in for our week in Paris.  The cast of characters for this trip includes me, my mother, my brother, his partner, my aunt and my cousin.  All flying in from different places to meet in Paris for a week.

My flight was supposed to be the first one in.  It did not work out that way.  The property manager left when I did not show up on time.  He left the keys and a note on the table inside.  My Aunt and cousin arrived first, didn't see me, didn't see the note so decided to go get some wine.  Let me assure you, I don't fault this decision in the slightest!

By the time everyone but me had arrived, it was clear I was not just out getting croissants (or more likely, wine).  I was, at that moment, in Boston, trying to get on a flight that would take me to France.  I was not supposed to be in Boston, that was not on my itinerary at all.  I was supposed to fly from Charlotte to Philadelphia to Paris, but my flight to Philly got cancelled and the comedy of errors and mis-communications that finally dropped me in Boston was worthy of US Airways history.  I did get to watch from the runway of the plane in Boston, my connecting flight to Paris taking off from another runway...that was fun.

Inside Boston's airport I needed a drink like no one's business.  The cheery gate agent (raise your hand if you have ever seen a cheery gate agent) informed me that not only could she not book me through to Paris, but that all the bars in the airport were closed since it was after 11pm.  Well, at least they will put me up in a decent hotel, right? The airline, with all the sympathy of the Gestapo, sent me on my merry way to a hotel (where the bar was also closed) and told me to try again in the morning to find a way to Paris.

The next day I found myself a standby passenger on the only flight from Boston to Paris.  I sat on the floor by the gate and cried so much that I am sure people thought I was desolate over leaving.  In fact I was terrified that I would be staying!  I offered to max my credit card out to purchase a business class seat...anything that would ensure I got on that flight.  In the end, I did get on the flight and I did get to Paris.  My luggage, however did not...

Up next...how to score a free t-shirt at Charles de Gaulle!

With no real fanfare, I arrived in Paris...a day late. I had gotten in touch with my family and let them know about my travel troubles.  I usually take the train into Paris from the airport, but this time, I decided to get a cab and just get straight there.  Right, so a quick stop at baggage claim and I'm on my way...

Ok, I know the suspense is killing you.  My bags did not make it to Paris.  Not that I am surprised at all.  The airline switched my flights so many times trying to figure out how to get me there, I am only surprised that I did eventually get my luggage.

I sat in the airport dealing with the oh so helpful customer service folks.  I was on the verge of an epic meltdown.  The only thought that kept me going was the hope that maybe I would get some sort of clothing allowance and be able to go shopping for clothes!  Now I know that a couple hundred dollars doesn't get you much when shopping in Paris, but even sweats are cooler when you can say you bought them in Paris!  Wait...do they even sell sweat pants in Paris?

Well, we may never know the answer to that question.  The airline gave me a toothbrush, a razor and a t-shirt and told me that if they couldn't find my luggage within three days then I would get an allowance to purchase new clothes.  What they thought I was going to do for three days with only the clothes I was wearing, a toothbrush, razor and t-shirt I have no idea...maybe shave my head and wander the airport with a daisy and a blessing?

After a thoroughly terrifying taxi ride through Paris, I finally arrived at the apartment we had rented in the Marais for our time in Paris.  We prefer to stay in apartments instead of hotels so that we can all stay together and we love staying in the Marais.  Also, we tell ourselves that we like having a kitchen so we don't have to eat out every meal, however in our previous trips we had never used the kitchen for more than coffee no matter what our intentions!

Once I had received the appropriate sympathy, we decided to just wander around the Marais, find a cafe for some wine and nosh and just relax.  I was hardly dressed for anything else!  We headed out towards Centre Georges Pompidou as we knew that there would be plenty of pedestrian traffic and places to eat and people watch.  Personally, I do not like the exterior of Centre Pompidou.  I find it a terrible contrast to the masterful architecture that makes Paris so beautiful.  But that is just my opinion, I am sure there are some people that love it, and the exhibits that are presented inside the Centre are usually first class and usually worth a look.

What I do love about the area is the street performers, market stalls and in the Spring a sort of festival set up in the open space with musicians, artists, games, etc.  I also love the Stravinsky Fountain.  I think its moving sculptures are a bit of whimsy in the area.

We grabbed a bite to eat at a cafe on a side street, learned more than we ever needed to know about Rugby and continued on our jaunt.

We also decided that we would take a day trip to Versailles the following day.  Although I have been to Paris several times, I had never taken a day trip outside the city.  There is so much to do and see within Paris, I just hadn't made it out there yet.  However, it was not to be on this trip either.

When we got back to the apartment, there was a message on the machine that the airline would be delivering my luggage the next day sometime between 10am and 2pm.  While this was good news for my companions, I will admit I was disappointed.  Beside this ruining my fantasy of a Parisian shopping spree, this also put the kabash on my going with the clan to Versailles.  We decided that everyone else should go ahead and go, there was no reason all of us should sit around waiting for my luggage.

Still to come...Of course I will have dinner ready when you get back...what else would I do?

The next morning, everyone got up and out the door fairly early to begin their trek to Versailles without me.  On the way out the door, my aunt jokingly asked if I would have dinner ready for them when they got back.  "Really...Even here I have to cook for you?"  At home it is my house that hosts holiday dinners, family gatherings, etc. so I am always the designated 'chef du jour' and to be honest, I love it.  I love to cook and try new things.  I view cooking for my family as an excuse to use them as guinea pigs so I get to try all sorts of interesting thing.  I guess its been okay so far...they keep coming back!

However, the luggage company had said anytime between 10 and 2  and as an American that is used to US cable companies, I expected that to actually mean around 3:30.  I envisioned calling for Chinese take out since we had nothing in the apartment except palmiers and coffee.  Imagine my surprise when my luggage was delivered at 10:30!  Well hell...now I have no excuse for not cooking dinner!

So off I went to find something to cook.  Talk about an abundance of riches!  Market shopping in Paris has got to be one of the most unbelievable experiences I have ever had.  First though, let me tell you that before I decided to go out to the 11th to visit Richard Lenoir, I made a quick trip to a local grocery store.  The difference between US and French grocery stores was amazing.  Yes, they have frozen, canned and convenience foods just like we do.  The difference is nearly all of the ingredients were things that actually occurred in nature and that I could pronounce.  Also, the utter absence of "sugar-free," fat-free," and other "healthy" (read chemically enhanced) foods was amazing!

But I wanted to see the open air market, so off I went.  Richard Lenoir begins at the Place de la Bastille and runs roughly northward.  On any given Sunday the market is bustling with folks.  I was a bit surprised at this.  I live in the South and one of the reasons I shop on Sunday mornings is because everyone else heads to church.  I figured the same would be true in the city of Notre Dame, but nope.  The market was hopping with heathens just like me!

I had no real menu in mind, I figured I would walk around and see what looked good...EVERYTHING looked good!

Succulent roast chicken that looked like the skin would be to die for.  This was particularly tempting because roast chicken is my Achilles Heel...I cannot get it right.  I can whip up a delicate fish with saffron scented butter sauce or a earthy porcini dusted beef filet, but I cannot for the life of me roast a whole chicken without turning it into chicken jerky or cutting into it and finding chicken sushi.  I have followed Julia's recipe to the letter...its just not in the cards for me.  But moving on, I did not get the chicken this time.

Scallops...Oh how I love scallops!  Rich and buttery, they come in their very own serving dish as if the sea gods knew how great they would be to eat!  However, in France they are sold in the shell, with the coral attached (which I love!) and I was not sure how well that would go over with the rest of the folks eating dinner.

As adventurous as I am as both a cook and an eater, I knew sea urchin was out.  I also did not want the apartment to smell of seafood for the rest of the trip so sadly, lobster and crab were out as well.

I decided to start with a traditional charcuterie plate figuring everyone would have something to nibble on at least, and if I messed up dinner at least we wouldn't starve!  Plus...look at those olives and the bread!  How could I resist!

Salad fixings were next.  The lettuces alone had me swooning and the peppers? Wow.  The thing that struck me as so different from US grocers was the way all of the food smelled...it was just so much more.

Unfortunately, by this point my hands were full of food and I could not take any more pictures.  For dinner that night we did indeed have a charcuterie plate, as well as a mixed green salad, gorgeous filet of beef with a red wine and mushroom sauce, roasted potatoes, and sauteed haricot verts.  It was a fantastic meal and I loved every minute of shopping for it as well as cooking and eating with family.

Now...if only I could get to Versailles!!!